Bontoc | Return to Mt Kofafey and Maligcong Rice Terraces in Shifting Greens

The village of Fang-arao and the Maligcong Rice Terraces I remember spending my first sunrise of the year 2014 on top of Mt Kofafey . Baskin...

The village of Fang-arao and the Maligcong Rice Terraces

I remember spending my first sunrise of the year 2014 on top of Mt Kofafey. Basking in the view of a sea of clouds unraveling before my eyes to reveal the Maligcong Rice Terraces below was just a magical moment that opened up the year. I knew someday I promise to be back. A few months later I kept my promise. This time I brought along my friends with me see this destination in Cordilleras I have been raving about. And also to see the Maligcong Rice Terraces in its evergreen state.

Walk on the road to Maligcong

Back at Suzzete’s Homestay

I spent almost a week in Bontoc after my first half-marathon trail run in Batad a few days before. I decided to wait here for my friend’s arrival from Manila instead of riding back. When they came, we boarded the jeep to Maligcong. The road at that time was being paved so we had to alight halfway, walk some distance and ride again to Suzette’s place. But we didn’t mind the walk as the view was already a glimpse, a tease for that matter, of things to come.

It was wonderful to be at Suzette’s Homestay again. To see her adorable kids and uber friendly mixed-breed pet dog, Kunig. Kunig got so much attention from the dog-lovers in us. There were also some new lounge chairs by the balcony overlooking the mountains. Everyone took their places at the balcony and enjoyed the nippy weather and some native brewed coffee.

Kunig the dog enjoying the view at Mt Kofafey

Climbing Mt Kofafey with Kunig

Much like my first climb, we were already up at 4am. My previous guide Ezra have school duties so we were guided by husband and wife, Mang Clemens and Ate Tina. And to our unexpected delight, Kunig came along with us all throughout. He was just amusing on the trail as if he was keeping watch over us, stopping at the front waiting for us to keep up. At times he would be at the back like a sweeper and the surprise the people at the middle of the pack by abruptly appearing behind the woods. Even at the summit, Kunig seemed to marvel at the sight as well. Who wouldn’t? Maligcong Rice Terraces in its shifting greens is different altogether. The vivid greens from the farthest Favuyan and the recently harvested Fang-arao. They have different planting and harvesting seasons here.

Mang Clemens and Ate Tina prepared our coffee while we went shutter crazy every rise and fall of the clouds. It was nature’s cinema at its finest. Maybe we also gave them some “Me” time as we wandered off nearby hills. We stayed probably three hours before we headed back.

The village of Favuyan with clouds

Our guides, husband and wife, Clemens and Tina

Kunig, named from the place, Makunig, our trail guide dog

Distant hills, trees and passing clouds

On our way down

Getting up close to the rice terraces of Maligcong

Afternoon at Fang-orao

The mid-day rest after the climb at Mt Kofafey got us enough energy back to push for a few more treks around the terraces in the afternoon. I was accompanied by Norbs and Ogs to Fang-orao to see the village and observe some of the harvesters. We chanced upon a couple lady farmers who also invited us to try harvesting. I was just impressed on how resourceful they were in thinking of attaching a small blade between a couple of fingers to easily pick-out the stalk with the rice grains.

We proceeded further up, past the school and chanced upon a guy with his dog who introduced himself as a Batangueño who is now living here. He was gonna check on his rice paddies on the other side to see if they are ready for harvest a week after. He also guided us to a higher vantage point to a much better view of Favuyen. The golden brown and lively green inter-verse to a beautiful random pattern in the fields.

Our view while having breakfast

Breakfast with a View

Kunig was not his usual self. Sulking silently on the floor, as if ignoring us. Could he sense we were leaving? I would have stayed longer if I could especially with the view of a low cloud over the the rice terraces joining us for breakfast as a farewell treat. How long will Maligcong Rice Terraces be as special as this? Quiet, little to no tourist crowds and serene atmosphere. I wouldn’t know but for sure I would be back again, probably on a different season.

Our Batangueño friend inspecting their part of the rice fields

Busy in harvest

Impressed on how the locals can keep their balance with all those weight

One of the ladies inviting us to try to harvest

Getting resourceful with that blade in their hand

Passing through the terraces