Batanes | Savidug Idjang: Exploring the Ancient Dwellings of the Ivatans

Mael and his daughter going up the Savidug Idjang I hopped in the #44 tricycle side-car owned by Mael, my driver who’s a native of Sabtang I...

Mael and his daughter going up the Savidug Idjang

I hopped in the #44 tricycle side-car owned by Mael, my driver who’s a native of Sabtang Island, born and raised in Savidug, a village at the central coast of the island. As with any tricycle in Sabtang, they have modified the look to add cogon roof making it look more native and offers shade on the ride. Mael’s young daughter of 8, who’s obviously clingy of her father joined us as we head to Savidug Idjang, just 1.2km south of the village. Idjangs are stone fortresses found in Batanes and the Savidug Idjang is considered the most impressive among the four found throughout Batanes. I’ve always admired the drum-like rock outcrop from afar, wondering what it is like to be on top of it and see first hand the ancient dwelling place of the Ivatans. This time I stayed overnight in Savidug village to climb it. Mael said he could take me there as his family has a patch of land near the idjang where he takes care of his goats and often go up the place as part of his daily morning chores.

View from the top of the Savidug Idjang

On Top of the Batanes Castle

The tricycle drove south along paved road and got off to a dirt path through a field of open greens. Parking under the shade, Mael took a container of drinking water for his goats, put in his shoulder and held his daughter’s hand while we walked. He dropped the container on another dirt path and said we’ll leave it there for now as we’ll go up the Savidug Idjang first.

We continued on the dirt path until we reached a stone path. This must be the ancient stone path I’ve read about leading to the Savidug Idjang. Mael said this has been here ever since he remembered. Large smooth stones of irregular shapes and sizes properly placed to form a pathway bordered by old-tree growths and occasional stone walls. The trees branches stretches forth as if reaching for each other on each side of the road. Their leaves offered shade to those walking along these ancient path. Many wilted fallen brown leaves found itself between the stone gaps. Somehow it felt enchanting just being there.

The trail continued on a moderate incline on the shoulders of the idjiang. Mael pointed me to the base of the fortress. The walls were already covered with roots but its still fascinating to see how they managed to cleanly curve these walls hundreds of years ago without machinery. The pathway continued on the other side where large field terraces, about 50–70cm high, descends down to a stream. Dr Eusebio Dizon of the archeology division of the National Museum, suggest that these agricultural land were used by the ancient Ivatans to grow root crops. The path becomes narrower and steeper with higher stone steps leading to the top. It’s not really high or difficult as I expected it to be. I remember a guide before telling me it would be tough to go up here and would require some ropes and rappelling skills to reach the top. But here we are, even Mael’s child had no trouble going up.

The Savidug Idjang from afar

The root-covered base of the idjang

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The ancient stone path leading to the Savidug Idjang

The top is flat but there’s a triangular platform at the summit. Despite the overgrowth of plants, we could clearly see piles of stones used to organize the sections of the summit. One section we saw may be used as food storage. Mael pointed out the white stones which were used to deceive enemies from below. Ivatans would retreat to this castle to avoid invaders, they will make the enemy think they have enough supplies as the white stones would look like sacks of rice from afar. Almost unnoticeable are the columnar stones with holes. Some still standing but others already on the ground even concealed by the grass. The purpose of these stones are still in question until now whether they are used as religious icons or simply structural foundations. Local Ivatans believe them to be simply the latter but it wouldn’t stop other Ivatans like Xavier Abelador of Yaru nu Artes Ivatan gallery in Basco to use it as inspiration for his paintings.

Columnar stones with man-made holes

Endangered Heritage

The view from the top of Savidug Idjang was nothing short of exhilarating. This time I get to be on the other side of the spectrum and see the coastal road this time cutting through the undulating landscape of greens much like the swell of the sea channel between Sabtang Island and Batan Island seen across. It’s fulfilling to finally be on top of this idjang but sad at the same time to see the neglect the local government has done here. The top platform has become a grazing ground for goats. The surrounding excavation grounds where stone patterns were orginally found are now in shambles. Worse, the stones at the ancient path are now slowly being ticked away by the Tik-tiks, people who pick out stone rubbles and crush them to smaller bits and resell them for use on new structures.

Mael with his goats

The Village Life

I followed Mael and his daughter back on the trail and decided to watch him do his chore. On the way to his goats he climbed a tree found on the trail and picked out some branched with leaves. His goats loves these leaves he told me. A stench from a rotting animal welcomed us as we approach the fenced grounds and found a snake in tangles from the trap he set-up. The dead snake seemed to be only a day old. Mael told me they weren’t allowed to kill snakes here but had no choice as his kids (baby goats) were in peril. The other day he found a dead kid half-consumed probably by the same snake caught in the trap. As soon as he fed the goats, put drinking water on their bowls and make sure they are accounted for we head back to the village. That is life now for an Ivatan in Sabtang. How much shade of their ancient past is reflected now in their way of life would be interesting to know.

For a tricycle hire and guide in Sabtang Island do contact Mael at 09394750654.

Ancient stones in shambles

The platform on top of the idjang

My posterity shot beside one of the columnar stones