Bohol | Abatan River: Butterflies, Fireflies and Moonlit Nights

Firefly watching at Abatan River Loboc is not the only river town in Bohol. The island province, home to the chocolate hills and the tiny pr...

Firefly watching at Abatan River

Loboc is not the only river town in Bohol. The island province, home to the chocolate hills and the tiny primates, tarsiers, have four major rivers intersecting through the island. Up northwest is the Inabanga River, the largest on the island and Ipil River up north. Utilized for eco-tourism is Loboc River coming from the center of the island down to the southeastern coast and recently, the Abatan River flowing to the southwestern coast. Our adventure guide, Buzzy Budlong, found excellent paddling opportunities on the latter and set-up shop along with the town’s RiverLife tours to offer something different and new.

Paddling at Bacong River

The Abatan River

The Abatan River stretches 20km long and winds through the villages of Antequera, Balilihan, Catigbian, Cortes and Maribojoc. Before the roads where paved, the river became the means of transport between villages. It became the venue for trade and cultivation of culture along these riverside villages. Now, a Visitor Center stands along the banks of Abatan River, in the village of Cortes, 10km from the city of Tagbilaran. It is the jump-off for the RiverLife Tours showcasing the crafts and culture of the five towns. This also the start of our paddling expeditions.

Dense mangrove midway at Bacong River

Bacong River Butterflies

Coming from an exciting Sea Kayaking tour at Banacon Island, our paddles dug deep into the river waters this time on the second day of our off-beat Bohol adventure. Early morning we ventured at a narrow tributary of Abatan River, the Bacong River. The water was clean and green. Fringed by common palm mangroves. Our morning paddle was also to catch the small white butterflies playfully frolicking at the surface of the river every morning. The river widens midway and we found ourselves crossing under Bacong Bridge. Buzzy chose to use his Mango Float stand-up paddle board here again while the rest of us were on our kayaks. We reached a dam where we parked our kayaks, made a short river trek and climb over the wall. Buzzy made use of the water flowing mid-through the damn as a jacuzzi. There were also some interesting thorny shells in the area. We headed back from that point on. It took us at least a couple of hours to explore the river and back.

Going under the Bacong Bridge

Easy river trek to the dam

Enjoying the view from above

Buzzy enjoying the dam jacuzzi-like water flow

Maribojoc Firefly and essential info on the next page…

Sunset at Abatan River with parked bandong boats

Maribojoc Fireflies

We returned in the afternoon again at Abatan River by sunset, this time to navigate the 8km northern route to Maribojoc village. We were supposed to kayak all the way but since we had little time, we decided to take the motorized bandong (a small boat with cogon roofing) up river with Buzzy in tow from behind on board his Mango Float. Midway, we saw the full moon rise and lend its soft light on the river and surrounding mangrove trees. There was tranquility in the air only interrupted by the steady hum of our boat engine. We reached the Maribojoc Mangroves and stopped on a towering aged mangroves where the fireflies seem to congregate, attracted by its unique scent that appeals to them. Even with the moon in full spectrum, the undulating light from the mating dance of the fireflies mesmerized our senses. I had a tricky task of capturing this natural light-show and had so many attempts with only a few ones I liked. Those ones I had captured is but a fraction of what can be seen. I’ve been to several firefly tours but it’s only here where I saw the unison of motion, like a wave, enveloping the tree. Wrapping and circulating along the branches. It was magnificent. We watched the show for about an hour before we left. Even on our way back to the Visitor Center in Cortes, we saw several trees aglow with these fascinating fickle and flickering creatures. A magical night indeed.

Buzzy on his Mango Float being pulled by our boat

Essential Info

The Bacong River Butterfly Kayak Tour (7–11am minimum of 2 pax at Php 2,100 each) and Abatan River Firefly Kayak Tour (4km, maximum 4 hours, minimum of 2 pax at Php 2,100 each) can be booked through IslandBuzz Kayaking and Stand Up Paddle Tours.

Contact Buzzy Budlong at islandbuzzphilippines@gmail.com or call +639275683799. Visit www.islandbuzzsupandkayak.com

For the Abatan RiverLife Tours visis www.riverlife.ph

Moonrise (left) and firefly watching on a kayak (right)